The past two weeks have absolutely flown by. Much of my experience can’t be told through electronic media. The best way to really find out about my time in Samoa is probably to spend some time with me when I finally make my way back to America J However, I know that my return is still a few months away so I will do my to convey my experience through this limited blog post and a few pictures on facebook.
Apia:
We flew from Christchurch to Aukland to Apia (the capital of Samoa, on the smaller island of Upolo). After crossing the International Date Line, we arrived at sunrise on Friday morning. It was already warm and humid. We boarded a groovy bus, painted pink with some sweet spray paint art. Dazed and confused, we traveled 40 minutes to the Tatiana Motel in the heart of Apia. This motel wasn’t quite the same as an American motel. Chickens and cockroaches roamed freely through the hallways and rooms and roosters crowed 24-7. They did have showers, although they were ice cold. We spent the next 3 days or so in Apia. We explored the markets, bought a ton of ice cream, hiked part of Mt. Vaea, and visited National University of Samoa. We also go to snorkel in the most incredible place. I have never seen fish like this in the wild, although multiple trips to That Fish Place with my dad have exposed me to some in captivity J. I went snorkeling twice in those few days.
Apia is fairly westernized compared to the rest of the island, but we still wore lavalavas (long, wrap skirts that we bought at the marker). We all learned how to tie and wear the lavalavas, even the boys. There is mostly fried, processed food in the capital (so many of us ended up with stomach aches). While in Apia, I ate my first fresh coconut, took my first foreign taxi ride, and attended a church service completely in Samoan.
Safua Hotel:
So on Monday morning we headed to the ferry in order to get to Savi’i. The ferry was surprisingly nice (a gift from Japan). It had air-conditioning and even a movie playing. I spent most of my trip on the top deck, watching the waves and landmasses go by. An hour and a half later we landed on the larger of the two islands, Savai’i. Another groovy bus picked us up (This one had “<3 the playa, h8 the game written on it). It took us to our next destination, Safua Hotel. To me, this is where our experience really began. Safua provided amazingly delicious breakfasts and dinners for us every night. Tons of taro, bananas, bread, chicken, soup, and coconut everything. Every night was capped with a live band, dancing, and hanging out with people (Samoan and American). Our accommodations were a bazillion times better than at Tatiana. Six other girls and I shared a cabin (called a fale). We had our own bathroom and really nice beds, although the roosters did still crow throughout the night.
During the day we had “class”. In other words, we toured the island on a groovy bus. We saw lava fields and a town destroyed by the lava flow. We went to the blow holes and sea arches. We spent some time on the most westernly point in the world and took a walk through the canopy of the jungle. We also had culture day where we went to a meeting fale (Samoan for house, pronounced fa-lay), participated in a Ava ceremony, learned to weave baskets and climb coconut trees, and even help make a traditional Samoan meal (think: killing a pig, grilling an octopus in its own ink, and all the taro you could want). It was really interesting. We picked up a little of the language and made a few new friends, but eventually we had to leave.
Faga (Fong-a) Village:
After over a week of palagi (European foreigner, pa-long-y) activities we began our home-stays. Lauren and I were placed together in a beach fale. The water crashed about 10 feet from us as we slept in a completely open platform with a roof. While Lauren and I slept in the same place, we had all our meals separately. I was placed with Faamafa (the dad) Seloulele (the mom), Nora (12 year old daugher), Silea Jr (Nora’s 1 year old nephew), and Silea Sr. (Nora’s grandfather). I ate all meals at their fale in the jungle. As a guest, they would fan me and wait for me finish eating before they started. This was extremely uncomfortable but an impassable part of their culture. Nora spoke pretty good English and I spent most evenings talking with her, going on walks, and helping her with her homework. My host parents and grandparent spoke very little English; we spent most of our time talking about food, weather, and what my family was like. Silea Jr. was possibly the cutest baby I have ever met and when he said my name for the first time I melted. I even got to work on the plantation, weeding taro for the day.
Staying Faga was an eye-opening experience. Most of the mornings and afternoons were spent snorkeling, writing papers, or napping (as per the request of our host families). The children of Faga were at times very over whelming. They constantly chased us, screaming “palagi!”, “what’s your name!” and, “do you have a boyfriend?!”. Those are pretty much the only words the younger ones know. The kids could be rough, but in the end they were incredibly sweet and loving. My experience in Faga is so complex that even as I write this I remember more and more details. Please ask me any questions you want in emails or in person when I get back. It is difficult for me to explain a culture so radically different than our own, especially one that has such a great impact on me. In the end, my family told me that they loved me and considered me a daughter. It was a blessing to be a part of a family again, if even for a short time. I miss that unconditional love.
Today we trekked back across the ocean (thoroughly enjoying the airplane with movies, music, and video games). I am loving the weather and food of New Zealand (although I am slightly sad not to have gone all the way home). The coming week brings round 2 of Sustainable Community Development with Mick. I look forward to what this class will teach me.
(Some) Things I learned:
- The brain is the best camera and the eye is the most amazing lens. Life is better when you live through the perfect lenses God gave you.
- I hate roosters.
- Every culture has something amazing to offer and an area where they desperately need to grow.
- Fish are brighter, ice cream is better, and the sun isn’t quite so hot when you are with friends.
- When you are hungry, Ramen noodles make a great breakfast (even for 5 days in a row)
- America and Africa are not the only countries. There is a world in between.
- Being a part of a family is the greatest feeling in the world. There is nothing like it and I really don’t have the words to explain it.
- You may just end up in a perfectly clear waterfall pool in the middle of the rain forest, so make sure you have a Frisbee on hand.
- Sometimes, Samoan girls think your boyfriend is really cute and so they steal a picture of him.
- Our planet is so perfectly balanced. We aren’t hopeless, but in order to change we actually have to want to change.
What a wonderful experience! You know the old joke: How many social workers does it take to change a light bulb? None....the light bulb has to want to change itself. Also....the teacher in me has to correct #6. Africa isn't a country at all....it is a continent. Can't wait to hear about the rest of your time in New Zealand. I'm still more jealous than I can say.
ReplyDeleteI am able to share you amazing adventures with my classes and it is so cool....'cause now they all know where New Zealand and Samoa are! You are teaching us all so much!
ReplyDeleteSo glad to hear that your time in Samoa was great! Your "classes" sound like ones I would really enjoy! What a precious experience to be welcomed into a family of such a different culture and to love and be loved in a place so far from home. You will never forget that. And I agree with Beth....So jealous!
ReplyDeleteI want to tell you that you are an inspiration to me and I am so unbelievably blessed to have you as a best friend in my life :) I can't wait until you come home and I can hear all of the amazing stories you have to tell! For now, these blogs work wonderfully!
ReplyDeleteI miss you
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